September, 2009:

I’ll never forget the first time I saw Sato Kanji perform because I cried and I have never cried at a concert before. Of course, the tequila shots may have influenced me, but still, this was… I want to say “sublime.” I mean, picture a stocky, middle-aged Japanese man with kinky hair approaching afro status, wearing a gaudy poncho more colorful than Joseph’s Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat, sporting an obscenely huge sombrero and strapping an acoustic guitar on. This was the kind of camp and hyperbole of appearance Harajuku is accustomed to. But then he started to sing—my God, did he start to sing. I had a front-row seat to the Japanese Gypsy King. Here was someone who obviously could care less what others thought because he was doing what he loved, and doing it damn well. Hitting the note? He was hitting the note of life. But hard, so hard is the way to happiness…

Where did this interest in music originate?
I started playing acoustic music with friends from my dorm in my second year at Kanagawa University. I memorized Spanish to sing some the songs—there were no language schools then. That was kind of my gateway. I consequently became interested in Middle and South America. I really just wanted a space to sing, but you can’t do that in a sushi bar or ramen shop. So Mexican it was.

When did you open Esperanza?
It was 1972 (though at a different location originally). In the beginning, I only knew how to make tacos, but I was so poor I couldn’t go overseas. Finally, when I was about 30, I went to Mexico and began to study cooking. Since then, I’ve been going about every year. I used to have bands in here, too, but times are tough. For the meantime, I’m solo, giving it my best.

Sato’s best is better than most. Check him out at Esperanza in Kannai. There is no set performance schedule and no fee, but he will often perform if you treat him to a shot of tequila (be prepared to down one of your own).

Esperanza エスペランサ
中区住吉町5-64-1
Naka-ku Sumiyoshicho 5-64-1
TEL: 045-662-9098

月〜土 17:00-24:00(L.O.23:30)
日・祝 17:00-22:00(L.O.21:30)

One of the city’s most celebrated monuments has recently gotten a sleek new makeover. Originally built as a part of the 100th anniversary of the opening of the port and finished in 1961, the Yokohama Marine Tower was just recently reopened, allowing visitors to climb this symbolic city monument. But the Marine Tower is not just a monument without a purpose. It was in fact a functioning lighthouse and, at 106 meters, was the tallest in the world!

The tower is no longer guiding ships to the docks, but for visitors, this building offers absolutely stunning cityscape views from the 29th and 30th floor observation decks. On a clear day, you can see as far away as Mt Fuji and Tokyo. The best time to visit is just before dusk. Take in the sunset and stay for the gorgeous panorama of city lights.

In addition to the sweeping views, the lower levels of the tower include an art gallery celebrating the city and tower’s history, a gift shop, a bar, and two fantastic restaurants.

Marine Tower
中区山下町１５
Naka-ku Yamashitacho 15
TEL: 045-664-1100

Price
大人 Adult: ¥750
中高校生 Adolescents(13-17): ¥500
小学生 Elementary School Children(7-12): ¥250
幼児 Toddlers(3-6) ¥200
三歳未満 Infants (under three): Free

Hours
10:00-22:30, Last entry at 10:00

Need a hard drink after a long day? Or just some quiet time to sip and think? Try Towser—located just a block from the Kannai entrance to Isezaki Mall, this liquor bar is refined but not pretentious or opulent. It offers all the pleasures and potency of a great whiskey bar, but not at exorbitant prices. The staff, too, is polite and friendly—the drinks should be cold, not the people serving them.

Whiskey, you say? Yes—300 different kinds of single malt, elegantly displayed behind the counter. Not to be outdone, Scotch is represented in 400 different varieties. The long, dimly lit row of bottles with all their decorative labels is both impressive and fascinating to look at. If really hard drinks aren’t your thing, then most of the usual cocktails are available and mixed right. If you really must, there is beer, and at least it is good stuff: Guinness, Edelpis, and Yokohama’s own Kaiko (port opening) Lager (produced by Suzuki Shinya at the nearby Yokohama Brewery). Come by for happy hour between 6pm and 8pm everyday for a modest discount. There is a 10% charge during regular hours, but excellent whiskeys start as low as 800 yen. If you are a true connoisseur (and have a lot of disposable income), some rare varieties go as high as 8500 yen.

Guests tend to be alone or in pairs, whether couples or old friends. The age of patrons ranges from early 30s to 70s. Quiet conversation over the standard jazz and jazz vocal music is the norm and, overall, the atmosphere is one of tranquility. Towser isn’t the kind of bar you would go to hoping to meet someone new, per se, but you never know, right? And if your tastes are whiskey and fine drinks, then this bar won’t do you wrong.

Towser タウザー

横浜市中区吉田町4-7
Naka-ku, Yoshidamachi 4-7
TEL: 045-263-3311

年中無休:(年末年始を除く)
月〜土 / Mon – Sat: 18:00-4:00
日祭日 / Sun: 18:00-3:00

http://www.zidaiya.co.jp

Art of the Tokugawa shogunate and the end of the feudal age

While Yokohama celebrates the 150-year anniversary of its port opening, the Yokohama Museum of Art is celebrating its 20th anniversary. The moment demands a special commemorative event so the museum is hosting “The Great Port Opening Exhibition: art of the Tokugawa shogunate and the end of the feudal age.” Commodore Matthew Perry’s fleet docked in Yokohama in 1854 and signed the Convention of Kanagawa. Four years later, America and four other countries signed the Ansei Treaties and opened up five ports, including Yokohama, thus lifting Japan’s centuries-old exclusionist policy. Soon thereafter, the Tokugawa shogunate relinquished its authority (Nov 9, 1867), the emperor was restored to nominal power (Jan. 3, 1868), and the Meiji government was established. In just 15 short years, Japan revolutionized its domestic politics and foreign policy. This political upheaval exerted an enormous influence on art and culture. The exhibition casts as its backdrop the huge waves of political change that followed the port opening and attempts to illuminate both what was carried over from the Edo period in Japanese art, and what new things were born of the new national consciousness of Meiji.

Yokohama Museum of Art 横浜美術館

西区みなとみらい3-4-1
Nishi-ku, Minatomirai 3-4-1
TEL: 045-221-0300

10:00―18:00 (金/Fri ~20:00)
定休日/closed: 木曜/Thurs
(open holiday Thurs, closed Fri)

I’ve always admired the all-around fitness of rock climbers. It’s an activity that requires strength, muscle conditioning, flexibility and balance. Dangling from rocks also seems like a lot of fun. What inner-child doesn’t want to climb? Despite my interest, I guess I never really pursued it because it seemed so costly and logistically complicated. All the equipment, traveling to remote locations, the time to learn…

Then I heard about climbing gyms in Japan. I went to one in Tokyo but was rather disappointed. It just didn’t seem genuine. There wasn’t enough variety and it was too carefully supervised. Part of the appeal of climbing to me was the element of freedom that seemed to be involved. Then the staff of Yokohama’s Patagonia store told me about B-Pump 2, a climbing gym near Yokohama Station, and everything changed.

Although deceptively small on the outside, B-Pump 2 houses an array of climbing walls for “bouldering” that can accommodate beginner and seasoned climbers alike. The walls all have varying degrees of overhangs or curvatures to simulate nature and pose challenges to the climber. The walls are marked with different colored symbols so that you can follow various climbing paths that are ranked according to difficulty. A staff member was kind of enough to guide me through my first climb. Despite the markings, there is some degree of choice involved when trying to reach the goals.

Part of the enjoyable atmosphere is the diversity of people there. I saw families, couples, circles of friends and, of course, the occasional lone climber. I was particularly impressed by a few patrons in late middle age who were moving across difficult areas of the walls with relative ease. Age, gender and social class really don’t matter so much when climbing. It’s all about practice and conditioning. I consider myself in relatively good physical shape, but I couldn’t get beyond the first few levels. After about an hour of climbing, my arms had turned to jelly. I expected to be terribly sore the next day, but it was bearable, and I was eager to get back and challenge myself again.

B-Pump-2 seems like a great place to get (and stay) in shape, but there is definitely a social aspect as well that is equally attractive. Patrons frequently talk to each other and I can imagine more than a few friendships or even romances having been forged there. Going on a date seems completely reasonable. A little competitive spirit, according to social scientists, can spur passion! Me—I just felt great and wanted a beer afterwards.

B-Pump 2 has an equipment store inside the building, but climbing shoes are available for free rental. Chalk is free your first time, and ¥105 after that. There are also small lockers and a changing room. If you need a break from your climbing, there are benches and a small rest area.

The fees were quite affordable. There was a one-time registration fee of ¥1575 (if you are already a member of one of the other associated Pump climbing gyms it is ¥1050). Day passes for adults run between ¥1260 and ¥2100, depending on the time of your arrival and the day; there are discounted rates for university, secondary and elementary students. Once you become addicted, you may want to consider a 6-month or yearlong pass! Classes, too, are available. For more information, please refer to their website.

B-Pump 2

西区平沼1-8-2
Nishi-ku, Hiranuma 1-8-2
Tel: 045-313-3672

平日 (weekdays): 13:00―23:00
土曜、祝 (Sat & Hol): 11:00―22:00
日曜 (Sun): 10:00―21:00
年末年始 （closed New Year only)

www.pump-climbing.com/gym/bpump2