October, 2009:

Florist & Flower Arrangement School in Motomachi

YSM: When did you open PFM?

In February of this year. I’ve had an atelier since before then.

YSM: When did you start doing flower arrangement?

About ten years ago. I was a housewife but when my child got older I had more free time on my hands. I wanted something to do and about that time saw a really lovely bouquet from a flower designer. I later started helping that designer.

YSM: Why did you open this store?

Overseas, people casually decorate their tables and windows with flowers. I’d like to promote similar customs in Japan, so I opened my shop.

YSM: What’s your proverb?

“Struggle is a source of pleasure.”

YSM: How does your husband get on your nerves?

He’s too nice to everyone (laughter).

YSM: Your parting words?

Please make flowers a part of your life!

Peace Flower Market
住所: 中区石川町 1-13-12
Naka-ku, Ishikawacho 1-13-12
TEL: 045-681-7236
営業時間: 9:30-23:00
http://stoves.sakura.ne.jp/pfm

The “China Museum” resists easy description. The large building itself goes by several names depending on the language used: China Museum (English), Daska (Shanghainese), or Yokohama Daisekai (Japanese). Daska (as we’ll call it) was originally modeled on an old theme park in Shanghai and was meant to present the culture of Shanghai in its glory days in the 1920s and 1930s. You can still see many pictures of beautiful Shanghai models and movie stars from this era on the walls, but the “museum” has evolved into something more fun for the large numbers of visitors to Chinatown.

The first four floors of Daska resemble a Chinese shopping center. The first floor is an excellent place to buy Chinese souvenirs, including Chinese tea, wine, panda t-shirts, sweets and frozen dumplings. The second floor has more souvenir shops, but also includes space for friendly Chinese craftspeople who specialize in making name paintings, paper-cutting art and copper/stone name chops (for your hanko stamp). The third floor has a food court where you can try various types of Chinese cuisine from traditional chahan, gyoza, ramen to Hong Kong sweets. I tried the chahan restaurant TonChiMi, since its staff gave me the warmest welcome. The chicken chahan was so tasty that I retuned to try their beef chahan the next day. The fourth floor of Daska has a variety of shops offering foot/face massages, Chinese tea and fortune telling. It also has a photo studio where you can have your picture taken wearing old-style Chinese clothing.

I was confused as to how the Trick Art Museum on the top four floors of the building fit into the “China Museum” theme. However, I soon stopped worrying about that since I am a big fan of Dali-style art with lots of hidden images. My young boy thought it was great fun having photos made with the trick art of scary creatures trying to eat us for dinner. (Note there is a small admission fee)

When visiting Chinatown, it’s advisable to get a map at the Chinatown Information Center (check our map for the info sign: “?”).

China Museum
住所: 中区山下町97
Naka-ku, Yamashita-cho 97
TEL: 045-681-5588
www.daska.jp
営業時間/Hours: 10:00~
Closing hours vary: check website for details

San Francisco guitarist Tommy Guerrero is still relatively unknown in Japan, but those who saw him at Yokohama’s Greenroom festival or on his recent Japan tour have been treated to one of today’s best live shows. The final stop at Yokohama’s Bay Hall last month capped off a string of high-energy performances that included Fukuoka’s massive Sunset Live festival and demonstrated his growing maturity as an artist.

The performances, at times frenzied and adrenaline-driven, were in marked contrast to his numerous CD releases whose tracks are generally mellow, funky, soulful, jazzy and bluesy. Few songs include singing. Most are short gems of keen creativity. Shall we even say genius? His 2003 release, “Soul Food Taqueria,” received little press until Rolling Stone Magazine named it the second best album of the year. His most recent album, “Return of the Bastard” (2008), coming ten years on the heels of his first, “Loose Grooves and Bastard Blues,” is another triumph.

Guerrero became famous in his teens as a skateboarder. He was a key member of Powell & Peralta’s legendary “Bones Brigade,” which was largely responsible for bringing the sport mainstream (and worldwide) in the 1980s. For someone who grew up watching his skate videos, his presence on stage is both discombobulating and nostalgic—he has so convincingly transformed himself into a musician, but the way he sometimes prowls the stage, cat-like, is reminiscent of his graceful skating style.

Bay Hall was the perfect place to see him. While the crowds at Sunset Live were impressive to see, Bay Hall provided a more intimate setting on which Tommy and his tight band seemed to thrive. The stage is low and close enough to the crowd to provide a visually rich experience on top of the excellent acoustics of the place. Sharing the stage with brilliant guitarist/vocalist Bing Ji Ling, bassist “House,” drummer Charlie Hall, and keyboardist/trumpeter Marc Capelle, Tommy left many in the charged crowd in tears, and probably everyone hoping for another show next year.

Coded Cultures is a binational art festival involving many cutting-edge media artists and scientists from Japan and Austria. The festival is a part of the official Austria-Japan Year 2009. Yokohama will be hosting most of the events in Japan.

The focus of this event is on art that confronts and interprets the increasing complexities brought about by technology, contemporary digital media, and globalization. Many of these artists are difficult to characterize. The purpose of this exposition is to provide a space to showcase art that the curator, Georg Russegger, calls “between disciplines” and describes as using “existing resources in extraordinary ways”.

Take, for instance, the “Common Flowers (Bio-hacking and Open-sourcing)” project by Shiho Fukuhara and Georg Tremmel. They took the first genetically modified organism that was modified for purely aesthetic purposes, the blue carnation, and hacked it back to its original white state—perhaps the first time a non-genetically modified plant was ever created out of a modified one. This “biomedia” project shows the intersection of science and creativity that enables human beings to hack nature—to nurture creation or to destroy it.

Yokohama’s own SHIMURA BROS (Yuka [a woman] and Kentaro Shimura) will be showing their “XRAY TRAIN” film. Using multiple screens in a way that works like a CAT scanner, the film makes an actual three dimensional movie of a train—an homage to the Lumiere Bros pioneering work in early film.
These are just two of the many works that will be displayed and discussed. The event will certainly be very thought-provoking and visually stimulating, so do try to come!

www.codedcultures.com

ヨコハマ・クリエイティブシティ・センター
〒231-8315 横浜市中区本町6-50-1
Yokohama Creative City Center (YCC)
Naka-ku, Honcho 6-50-1
Opening Reception: 10/16, 6 pm
Artist Presentations: 10/17, 1 pm – 10 pm

東京芸大：東京芸術大学 横浜校地 馬車道校舎
〒231-0005横浜市中区本町4-44
Tokyo University of the Arts (Bashamichi Campus)
Naka-ku, Honcho 4-44
Symposium: 10/18, 1 pm – 8 pm

Of Yokohama’s many Italian restaurants, Ore Sei, located just beyond the Motomachi tunnel in Hongô-cho, is unique for the flavor of its elegant dishes, its excellent Italian wine and its romantic ambience. Chef Teramoto Yukio, affectionately known as “Terry” by his many international customers, spent two years in a small Italian town studying cooking. His dishes are not heavy on the garlic; rather he uses tomatoes, butter and other ingredients to create richly flavorful dishes that also deserve praise for their presentation.

His menu is roughly divided into four parts: antipasto, pasta & risotto, fish and dessert. We tried something from each and were more than satisfied—not to mention full. The cost was reasonable for its quality, too; dishes are generally under 2000 yen (some antipasto and desserts are under 1000 yen). The menu changes seasonally and some of the ingredients he uses are fresh from his garden. Besides the scrumptious food, there is an ample selection of drinks, including Italian beers. Naturally, we recommend trying the wine, since it goes so well with his food.

The interior is simple but inviting, with warm red tones and dim lighting. The restaurant includes minimal table seating (non-smoking), a bar and a small, intimate room off to the side for two. Most clientele are couples and small groups, though individuals do sit at the bar on regular occasion. Terry is friendly and will talk (when he can) while cooking. He speaks English, too, and seems happy to describe his dishes. It’s obvious that Terry is proud of his food, and he deserves to be.

Ore Sei
住所: 中区本郷町１−１町田ビル２F
Naka-ku, Hongo-cho 1-1
Machida Bldg 2F
TEL: 045-624-0905
営業時間/Hours:18:00~25:00
定休日/Closed: 水曜日/Wed

Tomei’s

I knew I would miss wine country when I moved from California to Japan, but then I discovered an excellent California wine bar on Motomachi’s backstreet called Tomei’s. The owners, Michael and Tomomi Scott, personally tour the wineries, select their bottles and import directly to Yokohama. They only sell what they themselves like to drink and can boast of excellent cost-performance. Add to that the generous size of their pours, and you can drink in affordable luxury.

The store itself is not luxurious, per se, but more along the lines of casually attractive, friendly and inviting. This is true, too, of the clientele. It is an international mix of all ages and backgrounds, and provides for a little language and culture learning for more than a few guests. California in spirit, Yokohama in practice!

As many as ten bottles of wine are open at the bar, with prices starting from 700 yen. Or, drop by for 500-yen Sundays! For take-home purchases, Tomei’s stocks 33 different bottles of wine in 10 varieties. They have cheeses and home-made pasta if you are hungry. Something is always happening at Tomei’s; you may get to try some exquisite wine that had been opened for a commercial tasting (Tomei’s also stocks fine restaurants and hotels in Tokyo and Yokohama).
Sit on the outdoor patio, perch at the large wooden bar, or stand around the wine-barrel table for engaging conversation and good times. Tomei’s really knows its wine—time for you to know Tomei’s.

(Wireless internet access available)

Tomei’s
住所: 中区元町４−１６１
Naka-ku, Motomachi 4-161
www.tomeis.co.jp
TEL: 045-212-5446
Tue-Thu: 13:00~20:00 (wine shop)
Fri-Sun: 13:00~24:00 (shop/bar)

Basil

Noge seems to be going through a renaissance these days. Many new shops are going up and a new generation of youth is discovering its charm. Noge was actually my introduction to Yokohama and as a long-time regular in the area, I can fairly say that cheese and wine bar Basil adds a lot to the local spirit.

This tiny stand-bar is a great late-night spot where you are certain to strike up a friendly conversation with customers from all walks of life (and I do mean all walks). Take a date or a friend, or, like most of the clientele (in their 30s and 40s), go by yourself for a good laugh and a good drink after work. Basil rotates through about 60 kinds of wine from all over the world, and over 20 varieties are open at the bar at any one time. Prices are extremely reasonable: only 500 to 600 yen! There are also 20 varieties of cheese and a small selection of other cold snacks from 500 yen.

Basil
住所: 中区野毛町１−２９
Naka-ku, Noge-cho 1-29
TEL: 045-252-8075
19:00~4:00

Marché dix Jours

Although Marché dix Jours looks like a generic wine retailer on the outside, it actually contains a respectable wine bar and ample seating. Some of that seating includes an outdoor patio and, given its location by Yokohama Stadium, that offers ample opportunity for people-watching on game days.

The wine-tasting bar has between eight and ten selections that change weekly. Prices start from 600 yen. Want to take a bottle home? There are over 800 selections to choose from—add in the shochu, sake and other drinks and there are close to 1000 varieties! Some of the wine includes Japanese varieties that are very difficult to find elsewhere. A small selection of snacks is available, too.

By yourself? No problem. Many come just to relax with a glass and read some of the wine magazines available at the counter. Personally, I like the counter for its ample workspace. Nothing like a glass when you have some writing to do…

Marché dix Jours
住所: 中区日本大通５８
Naka-ku, Nihon-Odori 58
TEL: 045-662-5260
Mon- Fri: 10:00~22:00
Sat:10:00~20:00

Il Calice

Il Calice serves up a great selection of cheeses and Italian wines in a casual shop setting in Kannai. The small tasting bar has five or more kinds of wine that change weekly and start from 600 yen. Upstairs you’ll find a storeroom packed wall to wall with as many as 1000 types of Italian wine! Take a bottle home with you from the store or even order on-line.

But I have a weakness for fine cheeses, and Il Calice almost draws me in more for that than the wine. There are over 30 varieties, which you can eat there in the store with your wine or take home. Add to that the 15 to 20 varieties of ham and salami, other fine snacks and sweets, and you could have a decent afternoon meal.
The store also stocks a great variety of Italian foods, from dried goods to canned items. Many customers come just to grab a bottle of wine and some items for home cooking. Oh yes, and they do have grappa. The internet site has detailed information about their stock (though only in Japanese).

Il Calice
住所: 中区住吉町４−４６
Naka-ku, Sumiyoshi-cho 4-46
www.il-calice.jp
TEL: 045-227-5373
Mon-Thu & Sun: 12:00~21:00
Fri & Sat: 12:00~23:00