April, 2010:

Honmokukan

Sankeien Park is the main attraction in the Honmoku area for most people, especially in the warmer months when everything starts to bloom. The main thoroughfare through Honmoku, too, is lined with gnarled old cherry trees. There is an abundance of wonderful local restaurants and shops, and if you do visit Honmoku—or are simply passing through—definitely check out Honmokukan, the hometown bakery that may just make you a regular of the neighborhood.

There are actually two locations, one in the Honmoku Saty grocery store, and the main bakery located a few blocks from Sankeien. The main bakery features a much larger and more varied selection of freshly baked breads, pastries and other delicious items from the oven, as well as sandwiches, spreads, drinks and other food products. It would be possible—and quite easy, actually—to get breakfast, lunch and dinner there. It’s hard to say what we like the most because everything is so good. International residents will find some of the hearty pastries novel for their combination of ingredients (like the asparagus & bacon bun), but it’s good to be adventurous here. There are samples of many of the items available.

Honmokukan is actually a family-owned business with a long history. It was launched in 1948, and called then the “Aoki Sweets Store.” It has changed its name over the years and expanded its offerings, but the grandson of the original Aoki still runs it with pride. The staff are cheerful and helpful and the prices completely reasonable. Bring an eco-bag for extra credits on your point card (and, of course for the sake of the environment)—come on a rainy day for even more points. Plan some extra time, too, for a leisurely stroll through Honmoku so you can see more of what it has to offer.

(Yokohama Seasider sponsor Moon Café is also located in Honmoku)

Main Branch [本店]
中区本牧間門19-28
Naka-ku Honmoku-makado 19-28
Tel: 045-624-0080

Saty Branch [本牧サティ店]
中区本牧原7-1 本牧サティ 1F
Naka-ku Honmoku-hara 7-1 Honmoku Saty 1F
Tel: 045-624-5450

The Akai Kutsu Bus

A Slow Ride around Yokohama’s Tourist Spots

by David Ellis

Recently, my 4-year-old son has started requesting to ride specific trains, planes, and busses. When I asked him why he wanted to ride on the Akai Kutsu bus, he said, “Because it’s red!” The Akai Kutsu bus is very popular with tourists, since it gives them a cheap sightseeing tour (100 yen) of many of Yokohama’s best landmarks. I was not excited about riding a crowded tourist bus, but I agreed to my son’s request on the condition that we ride it after five p.m. when I hoped the bus would be less crowded.

We caught the red bus in front of Chinatown’s Rose Hotel and were surprised that there were only a few people at that time. We slowly moved past Motomachi up the hill to the scenic Minato-no-mieru (Harbor View) Park and stopped for a couple of minutes to take in the view. Then we passed by Yamashita Park and the brightly lit Marine Tower before slowly moving on to Osanbashi Park. On the way, we had a beautiful view of Zou no Hana Park and Minato Mirai all lit up at night.

Next, we moved rather briskly to Sakuragicho Station where we made another lengthy stop, but my son was happy since he had a good view of Cosmo World’s giant Ferris Wheel on the right and trains passing by on the left. We moved briskly again past Landmark Tower, the new Canon Cats Theater, the Anpanman Museum, the new Nissan Global Headquarters Building, Marinos Town, Pacifico, Manyo Club, World Porters, and then took another long break at the bus stop by Akarenga Soko (Red Brick Warehouse). After six minutes, we moved past Akarenga and traveled down scenic Nihon Odori, a beautiful street often seen on TV and in movies. We turned left at the oddly named Gooz Coffee and returned to Chinatown.

Our red-bus tour of Yokohama’s tourist spots took a total of one hour and 20 minutes. I had to thank my son for his bright idea even if he didn’t have the best of reasons for riding the red bus. I recommend sitting in the raised-level back of the bus as it affords a better view. I also recommend riding the bus after sundown, since Minato Mirai is especially beautiful all lit up at night. Now that my son has taken a ride on the red bus, he has a new demand: he wants to ride on “Dr. Yellow,” the seldom-seen yellow Shinkansen train.

Akai Kutsu Bus: http://hamabus.jp
Tel: 045-664-2525

Toriromeo

Ishikawacho has been enjoying a small food Renaissance over the last year or so, with hip, new restaurants popping up despite tough economic times. A friendly, international scene has evolved that’s wonderfully spontaneous—you never know when or where regulars are going to gather for good food and good cheer. But there’s a decent chance it’ll be Toriromeo’s.

This intimate, attractive yakitori shop with a counter that only seats nine has been from the start an anchor of these restaurants that are redefining the neighborhood. The no-gimmicks menu offers about 30 varieties of grilled vegetable and meat skewers. Shop owner Sugimoto Satoshi only uses salt (rather than tare, or sauce) to bring out the flavor of his skewers. I’m actually partial to vegetables wrapped in bacon, but he explained that the bacon drowns out the flavor of whatever is grilled with it. Fair answer. And indeed this more simplified style of yakitori does somehow make you focus on the flavor. It also goes really well with drinks.

Toriromeo has an expansive wine menu with about 60 varieties available. More affordable bottles start around 3500 yen while high-end bottles can run over 60,000 yen. Yes, guests who are looking for exquisite wine do go for the expensive bottles on occasion. And why not? This place is classy enough for a splurge. Not much of a wine drinker? The Hoeggarden on tap tastes great with everything he serves.

Veggie skewers range from 150 to 250 yen, while meat is between 250 and 500 yen. We are big fans of the sasami ume (chicken with plum paste), roasted duck and puchipuchi tomatoes that explode with flavor when you bite into them. But in the end, nothing on the menu is disappointing. Sugimoto can seem a little quiet sometimes; he tries to concentrate on making the food, not making conversation. As guests, we’re too busy concentrating on the great food anyway.

Tori Romeo
Naka-ku Ishikawacho 1-15-6
中区石川町1−15−6
Tel: 045-662-9121
Hours/営業時間: 17:00-25:00
Sun (日曜日) 17:00-24:00
定休日/Closed: 火曜日/Tues

Apollo

Noge’s innumerable restaurants and lively watering holes make it a jewel in the city’s crown, but what makes it unique is the old-school, down to earth atmosphere. On Friday nights, once that whistle blows, the working stiffs from the offices downtown loosen their ties and booze it up in the authentic old-school Showa atmosphere.

Apollo, a relative newcomer to the Noge scene, stands out. Apollo has more of a Euro-café feel to it, complete with hip music, antique furniture, and patio seating. A great setting for a date, but it’s also one of those rare places where you can hit the counter and make new friends. This is a bar that definitely attracts a friendly, younger crowd.

But of course, you can’t drink atmosphere, right? With 30 varieties of world beers and Japanese craft brews, the only challenge is deciding what to have (and what to have next). If beer isn’t your thing, you can go for any of 28+ wines, many of which go for under ¥4000 for a bottle, or one of many myriad creative cocktails. The food is mostly Italian fare that leaves nothing to be desired. The pizza that we shared the other night was just sublime. With great food and beer for people that love beer, this new kid on the block is sure to become one of our favorite haunts in town.

Apollo
Naka-ku Hanasaki-cho 1-9
中区花咲町1−9
Tel: 045-261-8308
Hours/営業時間: 18:00-3:00 everyday (年中無休)

From Sakuragicho Station, follow Hirato-Sakuragi St past Noge Hana Hana and turn onto Yanagi Dori at the Ash salon.
Note: A table charge of 200 yen is added to each customer’s bill.

Mitsuhashi Ikuo

Years ago, when I first met Mitsuhashi Ikuo in his bar Le Temps Perdu, he asked me, in French, if I spoke French. Yes, I replied (in French), but I’m American. That’s not what I asked, he said, I only asked if you spoke French. And so we did for the next ten minutes—me, haltingly; he, fluently. It was one of those quirky and interesting Noge-cho moments. And it was a good introduction to a quirky and interesting man. As I eventually learned, he also had a long, storied career as an international performer. This month, as the Noge performance festival kicks off again, it’s worth knowing who started it all and how.

When did you first consider becoming a mime and what was your motivation? How old was I? About 20. Before I became a mime, I had done drama and the stage, but the people doing drama at the time were tall, handsome and had good voices as a matter of course, and that’s not me at all. I thought, what would be my weapon, what would give me the edge? I just kind of settled on pantomiming.

What year was this? I would say about 1968. I think what blew me away was when I went to see a short film called “Two Men and a Wardrobe,” which was Polanski’s first work. Two men emerge from the ocean, carrying a wardrobe in a very surreal scene, and then at the end, you see them disappearing into the ocean, carrying the wardrobe. This left an indelible impression on me. Just about that time, when I realized that this was the kind of stuff I wanted to do, there were dancers all around me and Ohno Kazuo, the legendary Butoh dancer, came to teach at a pantomime studio.

So you entered that studio? How old were you? I was 20, a sophmore at my university. At the same time, Marcel Marceau came to Japan as well. Those two events overlapped and I realized, this is going to be my way in life.

A pantomime studio must have been rather rare. Indeed. In Japan there was only one. When I joined, I was a year and a half behind everyone and had to practice my ass off to catch up. Then someone in the studio formed a group and we started to perform. After graduating from the university, I entered the world of professional performers for three years. I did pantomime at a place in Asakusa called the Matsutake Theater, where everyone was doing comic dialogue, comic storytelling and stand-up. That theater is gone now, but celebrities like Hagimoto Kin’ichi and Beat Takeshi all came out of there. When Beat Takeshi was a student he was doing comic skits at a strip theater next door called Furansu-za, so he would come to watch my performance. After that, I was a regular for about a year on the NHK noon program “Present” and from Monday to Friday, I would perform every day, changing my routines. I became so well known that even when I went out into the country, little kids would point at me. After that, the TV director Ihara, who made some legendary TV programs, talked to me about starting a cabaret, so I joined that. It was a rather famous cabaret in Akasaka called Cordon Bleu.

What kind of cabaret are we talking about? A new kind of cabaret with performance as its main attraction. The shows were fast-paced and absorbing.

Not like the racy kind we have in Kabukicho now. (Laughter) No, it was bright and colorful, and rather expensive, too, so many celebrities were in the audience.

So you had quite a few amazing encounters. Nothing but amazing people. We’re talking members of the Four Leaves, the boy band that launched it all in the 70s– those kinds of people. Anyway, I did that job for a year and then while just musing one day, I began to feel as if I had become an empty shell. I had exhausted all my resources in that short time.

Between graduation and heading off to France, you basically did those jobs the whole time? My cabaret job overlapped with my NHK work, but about a half a year before I went to France, I read that the French Nicolas Bataille had opened a studio in Japan to develop young performers and I started going there. Meeting him, I realized that the performance techniques of what we thought of as pantomime were completely different from his. It was like stepping into a new world– whoa, there’s this means of expression, too! Everything changed after that. I realized that what I had been doing in Japan wasn’t the real thing.

And so even though you had achieved some level of fame, you threw it all away and went to France? Yeah, without a lingering thought at all, I gave up everything and went to France.

At the time, could you speak French? Not a word of it. But my teacher understood Japanese and my goal was to enter mime school anyway. We were pros in Japan and were therefore well above the level of the students, but what caused me a lot of trouble was that the teacher’s explanations were all in French. I couldn’t understand.

But I’m guessing that the language barrier gave rise to new ideas for you. Exactly, because you have to use your imagination, instead of relying on pre-existing concepts. Around Christmas, the teacher rented a hall for us and told us to do some of the material we had been doing in Japan. Although we had enough material to do roughly a one hour show, there was nothing to go in the space when we were changing our outfits. So we showed films of our performances on Japanese television and when the audience saw them, they burst into laughter. Then we would go out on stage and keep the laughter going. My one-year period as a student ended with that. With most of my money gone, I was thinking I had to go back to Japan, but my teacher said, wait, why don’t you stay and perform with me? Of the three of us who had come to France from Japan, one other guy stayed behind with me. Our teacher even rented us a place to stay and together with him, we traveled all over France, Europe and even the Carribean. This was just my second year in France–it was 1972.

And you also did street performances? I think I started doing street performances right about that same time. In my third year there, I left our teacher’s place and, going independent, started taking auditions on my own. I had been working closely with him for three years so I guess it was about my fourth year that I went completely independent. In my fifth year, I began teaching at a school.

A school in France? It was the Paris National Circus School and it was the first national circus school in France. I worked there as an instructor for about three years. So it would have been in about my eighth year in France that I launched the International Comic Festival.

That’s amazing. And you were what, only about 33 or 34? Yeah. I was 35 when I went back to Japan.

What did you do on your return? I already had a contract waiting for me in Japan. The president of the cabaret where I had worked ten years earlier had opened up a huge cabaret and restuarant theater inside the New Otani Hotel. He had even sent old friends of mine to France to tell me that he wanted me back. My performance fee was as much as 1.5 million yen a month (about 15,000 USD). Current stars like Korokke and Kataoka Tsurutaro were newbies then and performed there, too. I guess I performed there for about three months. Then I just decided to take it easy and after that break, I started my own pantomime studio and began teaching. A little later, I just started doing performances right outside my house and that was the beginning of the Noge Performance Festival (in Yokohama).

The Noge Festival? Incredible. That’s huge these days. Yeah, but it was even bigger in the past. After that–this would have been about ten years since coming back to Japan– I built some circus training facilities. At that time, just looking at my schedule was a shock to the senses.

Those were the 90s. So you basically did more producing at the time than actually performing? Well if you are performing, you can’t very well just perform a little. If anything, I just thought I would switch completely and refrain from performing. Production work continued to increase. When you are performing, you are in the public eye and you have to stay in shape, which is tough.

And so now you are in the position of a producer. That’s tiring too. But I do think that giving shape to an idea is an interesting job.

It seems to me that there aren’t too many people doing pantomime these days. What are your thoughts? That’s true, there aren’t so many people doing just pantomime these days. There are many who are using pantomime as an anchor and doing various other kinds of things. I think that’s the right way to go. Street performers have just exploded in numbers and I think that when it comes to charming people, pantomime’s colorfulness just isn’t up to the competition. Of course, I do still have some friends who are doing pure pantomime.

Lastly, what are your goals from here on out? My goals? I don’t really have any in particular. But, as I said, I do think giving shape to ideas is interesting work. None of the money I earned over the years remains in monetary form. I’ve bought things like the door to Benny Goodman’s house, staircases, stained glass. Since all my money survives in those things, I think I’d like to turn it all into a bar.

A performance bar? Please make it a reality!

Photo Feature

April is a great month for photography! Well, every month is a great month for photography, but April offers more opportunities than most in Yokohama. The cherry blossoms and revelry of hanami aside, Yokohama’s big street performance festival—daidôgei—takes place this month! Time to pull all your old analog cameras out of the closet for some old school photography fun with an old school street performance. Of course, digital is great, too, but film provides a certain pleasure that you can only appreciate by trying it yourself. Also, we will be printing a collection of film shots from the festival in the May issue. Send us scans of your best shots or ask the Dark Room International staff for more details.

The Dark Room International, which generously sponsors these pages of photography each month, is a fully functional dark room located in the historical Noge district. Develop your black and white film and make prints—from start to finish, the photo is completely yours! Last month, we mistakenly reported that you can make color prints with color negatives. Actually, it is possible to make prints with color negatives here but they will be black and white. You can use positives, too, but the images will be reversed in addition to black and white (some people find this interesting and actually do it). The members are helpful and friendly so please drop by if you are interested in photography.

This month, we feature yet again a photographer (opposite page) who participated in the Yokohama Photo Festival’s open portfolio review this past January. On the last two pages, we feature two female photographers associated with the Dark Room International. Please check our future issues for more work by the demographically diverse group that uses these wonderful facilities.

Dark Room International
中区花咲町1丁目42-1-2F
Naka-ku, Hanasaki-cho 1-41-1-2F
Tel/Fax: 045-6185-7282
http://www.thedarkroom-int.com