King Pelican Fresh Malt Pub
Tsurumi-ku Namamugi 1-11-12
Tel: 045-503-1950
Hours: 13:00~26:00 (Mon~Sat)
web: kingpelican.jp
Mugiya
Tsurumi-ku Namamugi 3-2-27
Tel: 045-642-6323
Hours: 16:00~25:00 (Tue~Sun)
Steam Head Fries
Tsurumi-ku Namamugi 3-15-24
Tel: 045-516-0310
Hours: 17:00~23:00 (Wed~Sun)
Instagram: steamheadjapan
The Namamugi neighborhood in Tsurumi-ku is at first glance unremarkable. Nestled between hills to the west and heavy industry on the reclaimed land to the east, it is pierced north to south by busy highways and rail lines. Paradoxically, it is notoriously difficult to reach by public transport, as express trains whiz past its local station without slowing down. It is a landlocked “urban island”. This isolation, plus its colorful Tokugawa-era history as a village on the Tokaido Road, engenders good-natured pride, especially in its plentiful bars and eateries. One might say that the whole town is an “anaba”: not easy to find but worth the effort.
Just steps from the Keikyu station, the center of local identity is King Pelican, founded in 1998 by Masahiro Fujiwara (and named after a brand of lettuce). His first love was whiskey, but his steady customers have increasingly favored craft beer, available from his eight taps and by the pint for ¥1540 (½ pint ¥825). His long connection with both Yokohama Beer and local patron Kirin ensures their presence on the menu, alongside a full slate of bar food. It was the enterprising Fujiwara who originated the intensely local beer festival held each autumn since 2013, bankrolled by Kirin but sponsored by the bars featured in this article–until it fell victim to Covid-19. However, stand by for good news!
Thirty seconds away is Mugiya, an offshoot of King Pelican since 2016. The name refers not only to the neighborhood but to the main ingredient of beer and whiskey. Jolly innkeeper Toshihiro Yokoyama presides over a rollicking atmosphere for the local crowd, with infectious enthusiasm and a keen memory for faces and names. The central standing bar, with the popular ko-no-ji (rectangular) arrangement, promotes conviviality amongst strangers. Seven taps (300ml ¥770~) focus on local craft beer, but a giant jug of Kirin is yours for ¥1155. Simple hors d’oeuvres range from ¥275 to ¥480. Complementing the beer is a broad selection of sake, all from Fukushima.
A short walk across Route 15 brings you to Steam Head Fries, which Yuzuru Kuroki and his wife Mai opened in 2017. The menu is strictly for carnivores, with sausages, steak, lamb chops, pizza, and four kinds of burgers. Unsurprisingly, fries accompany every item. Wine and cocktails are on offer, but the main draw is a broad range of craft beer on tap and in cans, especially Kuroki’s favorite Two Rabbits (Shiga), all at ¥950. Beer geeks can revel in the details of ABV, IBU, malt, hops, and yeast for each brand.
News flash: the Namamugi Beer Festival returns on October 29-30! Live music and local bonhomie will accompany food and drink of all descriptions, providing a perfect excuse for a pub crawl in this hidden jewel of northeast Yokohama.